by Conroy
Arriving
|
The famous Pitons |
I gazed at the gibbous moon gleaming low in the afternoon sky. I was on
a south-flying plane looking east over the cobalt Caribbean. From 38,000 feet
the sea seems as static as a painting; the rippled surface, flecked by bright
white wave crests, appears fixed like stone. The sporadic clouds cast a
patchwork of dark size-less shadows onto the water. The daytime sky looks
different from high altitude, the blue purer, the dome of the sky a darker azure
than can ever be seen from the ground. When I travel by plane I always feel
like my fellow passengers and I are nowhere, lost for a time between origin and
destination. We’re not where we started or where we’re going. This perception
is powerful during night flights, especially over water, where only blackness
can be viewed from the windows. But it’s true during the day as well; flying
high above the world, detached from the slow fade of the terrestrial reality far
below. And it’s emphasized when the place left behind and the place traveled to
are drastically different – as they were today.
Our 757 took off from Atlanta, the world’s busiest airport, on a sub-freezing
January morning. We would soon be landing at a notably quiet runway, and into the
endless tropical summer. My girlfriend and I were taking a vacation to the tiny
island nation of
St. Lucia. This would be my first time in the Caribbean, the
first time staying at an “all-inclusive” resort, and I was eager for the
experience. We had flown over Puerto Rico a half hour earlier and were already settled
into our gradual descent. French Martinique was green and beautiful below. Then
St. Lucia appeared. Our flight path was taking us right over the island –
northwest to southeast. We were lower now and I had a good view of the island, so
modest in size that I could almost take it all in: the semi-dense development in
the northwest; a three-masted sailboat in the cove of Pigeon Island; a cruise
ship nestled into Castries’ (the capital) small harbor; bright blue water and
light sand along the Caribbean coast; the green, lush, empty, rugged interior;
a fleeting glimpse of the strange, picturesque, and famous
pyramids of the Pitons
in the southeast; and finally our figure-eight descent into Hewanorra
International Airport at the south end of the island.
St. Lucia
St. Lucia is a dot in the ocean. It is one of the many Windward Islands
of the Lesser Antilles, and lies smack in the path of the
easterly trade winds.
If you’ve never experienced the trade winds, as I hadn’t until I stepped off
the plane onto the Hewanorra tarmac, imagine a 15 mph breeze – that never
stops; a giant planet fan stuck in the on position. It’s no wonder sailors of
old used these winds to cross the Atlantic. The island is just 258 square
miles, just a tad larger than Chicago, and is home to a little more than
170,000 people. There are only 17 countries smaller in size and only 18 with
fewer people (in both cases many of those smaller, less populated countries are
fellow Caribbean islands). The country has a colorful history after European
settlement in the mid-seventeenth century, changing hands between the British
and French fourteen times (seven each), until the British established firm control
following Napoleon’s first abdication and exile. The island remained under the
Union Jack until gaining late independence from the disintegrating British
Empire in 1979. That makes the country just a little older than me, and it
remains in the
Commonwealth of Nations. Upon viewing the Queen’s face
[1] on
the East Caribbean dollar – the official currency of St. Lucia and surrounding
countries – I said to a local: “I see the Queen is still on your currency,” in
a casual effort to gauge the local attitude towards their former rulers. I
received a matter-of-fact explanation that the country was part of the
Commonwealth, which didn’t tell me much.
The aboriginal population was decimated after contact with Europeans,
and African slaves were imported in large numbers to work the island’s numerous
plantations. Today the population is almost entirely black. English is the
official language, but a French-Creole is the local vernacular. From
observation, the locals speak English to tourists and Creole amongst themselves
(more on this later).
The island is also obviously poor. The per capita income is less than
$6,000 a year, a meager sum. Contrast that to Barbados a hundred miles to the
southeast, a nation of similar size but with personal income four times larger.
The dearth of wealth was obvious from the bland, functional airport and the
languishing buildings on the way to our resort, a drive which fortunately took
all of about three minutes because our resort, Coconut Bay Beach Resort
(hereafter known as Coconuts), has the terrific convenience of being literally
within sight of the main runway.
All-Inclusive
|
Coconuts from above |
Coconuts is situated on a large plot along the Atlantic Ocean, maybe
100 acres in total, at the southwest corner of the island. According to our
inbound flight attendants, it was a former Club Med and also the preferred
layover hotel for pilots and flight crew (no doubt because of its proximity to
the airport). It’s both the only resort on the Atlantic – windward – side of
the island, and the only resort situated in the far south. This means the surf
is constantly choppy and the water has a distinctly teal color, no clear
turquoise to be seen. We were greeted with a glass of champagne, settled in our
room, and took a walk around. The resort is comprised of two wings, one for
families and one for couples (which is where we were staying), all with ocean
view rooms. It includes half a dozen bars spread out over the complex
[2], a
main dining area, three specialty restaurants, a night club, main stage for
nightly entertainment
[3], at four sprawling pools, a small
waterpark, tennis courts, and a tiny paintball battlefield. There was also a
reception building and seaside gazebo (where a wedding occurred during our
stay). Of course you can’t overlook the mile or so of breezy beachfront and
fields of palm trees. In general, the buildings are older but they were well
maintained and the rooms and common areas were clean, so I was happy. The large
high ceiling-ed lobby was the first floor of the main central building, and it was open on the entrance and pool/ocean side to the elements. No need for
walls and windows in a perfect climate. There was an “adults only” section with
a private pool, bar, and beach, which my girlfriend and I planned to take full advantage
of. Is this similar to countless other Caribbean resorts? Perhaps, but it
nicely met my expectations.